Friday, December 12, 2014

…And Rain Fell Upon Poros for Five Days and Five Nights...

My favorite local spot less than a 5-minute walk from my house -- Once Upon A Time cafe -- on Thursday afternoon


Times they are a changin'! Very fast and with no warning.


After a splendid three months on Poros, which I always refer to as an impenetrable bubble in paradise with no crime nor pollution to speak of nor any other negative issues that affect the majority of the world, I have experienced the worst catastrophe in 60 years in this tranquil, mild-weathered island's history. Sunday night around midnight the rains, hail, thunder, and lightning began…which just dissipated this afternoon after five long and exasperating days and nights. Highly unusual for this little slice of heaven on earth. Today I heard that according to Mayor Yiannis Dimitriadis the worst damages have been to Askeli (my village). In 66 building inspections, 55 shops and houses were determined to be totally damaged, nine partially damaged, and only two unharmed.

Before and after of the beach right by my house in Askeli


I have literally never seen anything like this in my life; I can say this based on personal experiences comprising multiple typhoons in the Western Pacific on the small US territory of Guam; hurricanes in the southern part of the United States, which is the land of Hurricane Katrina; landslides, fires and earthquakes in Southern California for years. I was even in -- on vacation back to Guam in August 1993 -- an extremely rare 8.2 earthquake (they were prepared due to typhoons, thus since no one died you won't find this earthquake in the list of history's recorded Top 10 because to be listed, there must be fatalities). I can assure you, however, that temblor was no fun!


Writing my blog today at my home-away-from-home office -- Once Upon A Time cafe


The devastation for so many folks here has been unfathomable…many homes lost completely in the flash floods and downpours. Mind you, these are not your normal rains. We have had fairly consistent torrential rains -- not with raindrops but as if buckets are pouring directly from the skies. No let up for five days for probably about 50-60 percent of the time since the heavens started pouring Sunday night. If I had to hazard a guess because -- sadly -- when I Google "poros greece storm" nothing shows up to see statistics, I would guesstimate approximately 30 inches of rainfall in this five-day chaos. This area has been deemed a "disaster zone," so I hear today. 


A two-toned Askeli Beach and sea Thursday


The worst part is there is really no expectation nor preparation here for this type of natural disaster. Ironically, this small island in the Saronic Gulf surrounded by some of the most beautiful water on the planet has been demolished by water in a much more unrelenting form. From what I understand, there is usually a mild winter in January and February here with some rain…emphasis on the word "some."


This li'l mandarin almost made it into the sea from the hills…and surely by now has floated away...


So, what do you do for five days in a deluge of this magnitude? For starters, you try to get out of the house when you can during some day time when the rain is intermittent. I always head out in my clogs (because of course I did not anticipate needing rain boots here) and make my way slowly on what is my usual five-minute walk to the local markets in Askeli and my beloved hang-out -- Once Upon A Time cafe. This is no longer a five-minute stroll, but more like 10 minutes of slipping and sliding in mud, mud, mud. Quite the experience!


Water rushing from the mountains into the sea through piping that is way too small to handle the onslaught of this week's downpours


My two dogs are also completely baffled because they are not going out in the consistent 3-4 inches of water and mud to do their "business." The house and one of my balconies have become their release zones this week. So much for being house-trained, but with all tile floors I clean up immediately and so it is, and will be until tomorrow if the sun appears as promised by the forecasts.


Just a small portion of mud on the Askeli roadside


I am very fortunate I took an apartment on the second floor of a very well-maintained and sturdy building. I was debating on taking a home on the beach or a first floor somewhere with a garden. Had I done so, I most likely would have lost everything. Many homes in these areas -- and the prairie of Foussa in the mountains here -- have been devastated and totaled in damage resulting from up to a few feet of rain water and mud hammering away over 120 hours without slowing down or showing any forgiveness for those in an unkind nature's path.


Helpers gather near my house in Askeli by "River Road"


The silver lining? Most inspiring is this: the Greeks and ex-pats here are filled with unadulterated and unshakable resilience and fortitude. They have tried to clean up the flooding messes in their homes and businesses daily, to no avail as the next day just delivers inches more of water and mud. Despite their own personal tragedies and losses, they try to help their neighbors and friends stay afloat in their surroundings. Literally. They smile. They laugh. They turn on their Christmas lights. They play cards. They compare horror stories from their own experiences or those of their friends. Day in and day out. For five seemingly endless days.


Adonis and Andreas today at Once Upon A Time passing the rainy time


The sun is expected to shine tomorrow and Sunday for a respite, but I can only hope and pray it is more than a respite: this island and its wonderful residents can't take much more. The ground has been completely saturated since Monday and the mudslides have been interminable. The most promising outcome of all this is seeing an island full of strength and spirit that is unconquerable.


On Monday, lovely skies prevailed but who knew what was still to come for four more days and nights...


I can only hope after this we will have splendid rainbow-filled skies -- completely filled with the most brilliant arcs of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet! The island deserves nothing less. This will be a welcomed sight to so many tired, weary, sleep-deprived, yet always hopeful eyes here on my beloved Poros! One thing is certain: we will be living on a fresher, cleaner, and - if it's possible -- even more verdant Poros come Spring!


Once Upon A Time remained open every day as a meeting place for all in and around Askeli despite the daily deluge of mud on Maria's garden-area patio and even into the cafe's interior...


So, we behold the "opa" spirit and determination firmly in all our hearts! That's just how Greece -- and the Greeks -- choose to proceed against all odds...as they always have and always will! This is what makes Greece, "Greece"! Yamas!


Beautiful -- albeit sad -- photo at Once Upon A Time on Tuesday



Writing my blog by the Christmas tree at Once Upon A Time today, surrounded by friends lending support to one another and even managing to share some laughs!


My complete storm photo album on Facebook from this week:



News video at this link: